The Tradition of Tikoy
While searching for the best tikoys in town it was intimated to me, how the interesting tradition of tikoy eating came to be.
Joseph Tiu shared this story, one that has been told, time and again, passed on to him by his grandfather, Tiu Kim Hok, a native of Xiamen, China. In Chinese Mythology and in Taoism, the Kitchen God, Zao Sheng, is a very important God. Each family has their own Zao Sheng (kitchen God) who is highly worshiped by the family and considered the guardian of the household.
Once a year, on the 23rd day of the 12th lunar month, one week before the Chinese New Year, he will ascend to heaven and present a report to the Jade Emperor. Zao Sheng is to report how the members of the family behaved in the past year. The Jade Emperor then rewards or punishes the household (basing his judgement) on what has been reported by Zao Sheng. Which is why, an offering of nian-gao (Mandarin for tikoy - nian or tian ='sweet / gao = cake) is presented to Zao Sheng on that day, as a bribe.
Nian-gao particularly, because it is both sticky and sweet. Joseph expounded, "sticky because the family wants the nian-gao to "stick" to the kitchen God's mouth thus preventing him to give a negative report." "Sweet for a sweetened version of the household activities in the past year." The word tikoy is a derivative of the Fookien word ti-ke (ti - sweet / ke - cake). Joseph added, nian-gao is most appropriate to give during Chinese New Year as it sounds like 2 other words - nian (year) and gao (high).
As such, nian-gao, ti-ke or tikoy conveys the intention and a wish for a higher (better) year. Lastly, the sweet cake, being round signifies, more money, more prosperity. Tikoy, given its shape, symbolizes good, never ending relationships; the reason behind handing them as gifts, according to Sofia Co.
Who makes the best tikoy?
While that remains debatable, as the best depends on the preference of the partaker; here is a guide (with tasting notes and recipes shared by my Chinese Filipino students, friends, restaurant owners and Xavier school co-parents who are not just foodies but tikoy aficionados) to the most delectable ones available in town.
-Sweet Taste
Tikoy is not overly sweet. Stays soft even long after it has been cooked.
Tel. # 7317147
47-A Nicanor Roxas St., QC
-Sampaguita
They make giant tikoy, up to 4 kilos each. The brown sugar variant is preferred.
Tel # 5316961
44-C Shaw Blvd., Mandaluyong
-Good Luck Tikoy
Soft yet firm. Not too sweet.
Tel # 7415755.
126 Iriga St. Laloma Q.C.
-Echague Bakery
One of the oldest manufacturer's of tikoy. Pleasantly sweet. Firm bite. Smooth.
Tel # 3647154
410 A. Bonifacio Brgy San Jose QC
-Salazar Bakery
Tikoy stays soft long after it has been cooked.
Tel. # 733-1397
783 Ongpin St., Sta Cruz Manila
-Buena Mano
Nice chewiness. Not too sweet.
Tel # 3528539.
649 B Tomas Mapua St., Sta. Cruz Manila
-Shin Shin
Soft and sweet
Tel # 4009368.
15 Dorotea St. Caloocan
-Holand
Neither soft nor hard. Perfect sweetness. Made the traditional way by mixing two kinds of rice ( malagkit rice and rice grains). It is wrapped in beancurd (taupe). The process gives a distinct flavor, texture and stickiness to their sweet cake.
Tel # 2429709, 2429595, 09228158551.
551 Yuchengco st. Binondo
Specialty Tikoys
-Choi Garden's ginger tikoy is aromatic, subtle and wonderful with tea. Other variants - gold bar, brown sugar and red date.
Tel # 727-6042, 727-7489, 724-5343.
12 Annapolis St. cor Purdue St., Greenhills, San Juan City.
-Hai Shin Lou's Tikoy - Made from imported malagkit and red dates. Soft. Fine.
Tel. # 7527433, 8925148.
810 Arnaiz Avenue, San Lorenzo Village, Makati.
-Shin Ton Yon's special red bean tikoy is a recipe from Taiwan. It has no preservatives, artificial coloring and flavors.
Tel. # 243-2087, 243-2089
825 Salazar Street Binondo Manila
-Shin Tai Shang - Eight Treasures Tikoy has Red Dates, Black Dates, Longgan Jujube, Goji Berries, Cranberry, Walnut, Raisins, Gingko Nuts. No preservatives, artificial flavors and coloring. Shin Tai Shang imports other tikoy brands from Taiwan.
Tel. # 244-0325.
815 Salazar Street Binondo Manila
The Many Ways of Cooking Tikoy
Sofia Co with Winter Melon - "The tikoy turon is the original spring roll. It is cooked during Chinese New Year - a roll cooked during spring time." To prepare it traditionally, get half a piece of lumpia wrapper, top with a strip of tikoy, add a piece of sweetened winter melon and a very thin strip of fresh pork back fat. Sprinkle with sesame seeds. Roll and deep fry slowly, over medium heat to cook the fat. The tikoy, winter melon and strip of pork back fat combined, should have a circumference of 1 inch.
Abby Dichaves with Ube - Slice tikoy. Put a piece on half a lumpia wrapper. Add a spoonful of ube haleya. Roll and fry.
Jennifer Lao - Palitaw style. Slice tikoy. Boil. Dip in a mixture of sugar, shredded coconut and toasted sesame seeds.
Banana fritter style: Slice tikoy, top with a slice of banana, sprinkle with sesame seeds, coat in batter, fry. Batter : Combine 1/2 cup flour, 3/4 tsp. baking powder, 1/2 tsp. Salt. Combine and lightly mix 2 eggs, 1/3 cup evaporated milk, 1/2 cup fresh milk. Gradually add flour mixture and mix lightly.
Jecelle Tycangco with Cheese - Her mom, Lily Ang would leave the tikoy to age before cooking it. This results in tikoy that is firm to the bite. Wrap a thin strip of tikoy with a strip of Eden or Quick Melt cheese. Roll with half a lumpia wrapper. Fry in oil.
Johanna Lao with Langka - Put tikoy and langka strips on half a lumpia wrapper. Roll. Fry in oil.
Stevie Villacin with Bacon - Slice tikoy into strips and wrap in lumpia wrapper with a small slice of bacon. Fry slowly over medium heat.
Eng Bee Tin's Stir Fried Tikoy
500 gr. Eng Bee Tin Special Tikoy sliced into strips
1 tbsp. oil
1 tbsp. minced garlic
1 tbsp. soy sauce
1/2 tbsp. sugar
Pinch of pepper
1/2 cup water / broth
200 gr. slice cabbage
100 gr. each - sliced carrots, sliced pork, shrimp
Sauté garlic in oil then add pork and shrimp. Add the rest of the ingredients. The cabbage last. *You may substitute cabbage with togue or string beans.
For this year’s luck, contact Master Aldric - (0999) 312 8168.
For your sign's lucky crystal bracelets, visit Atong Sy of World of Crystals.
Tel. # (0917) 506 2222.
817 Benavidez St., Manila
Wishing you a blessed Year of the Rat!